First things first. Thanks so much to EVERYONE who has ever shared info, answered a question or thought of something in advance for me on this forum either directly or indirectly. I learned and utilized so much on this trip. I%26#39;m breaking this down into a couple days at a time because they are *long* (or longwinded if you prefer.) I think because I was alone I took the time to notice my impressions and thoughts more.
27 Dec - I arrive. I want to be gleeful but I%26#39;m too tired and jet lagged. I zip thru customs in less than 2 minutes, there wasn%26#39;t even a line. For one insane moment I consider taking the RER %26amp; metro but who am I kidding? I%26#39;m too befuddled to do anything but stumble to the taxi stand. Hopping into my taxi, I give the hotel name and general area and finally feel relief: I am here, things are going to be wonderful. This lasts about 30 minutes until my cab driver tries to confirm where I%26#39;m going. Holiday Inn Express, Place d%26#39;Italie. I get my reservation out to confirm. This is literally the first time in SIX MONTHS that I notice it says PORTE d%26#39;Italie. I look at my metro map I had in my carry on and it%26#39;s 3 stops past where I thought I would be. I%26#39;m not even sure I%26#39;ll still be in Paris, the zip code is 94270 and that does NOT sound like any arrondisement I ever heard of. My taxi driver is very helpful though, uses his cell phone to call and get the final directions since he doesn%26#39;t know where it is. At this point my heart has sunk to my shoes.
I go to the desk to check in but it%26#39;s 10:30am and they don%26#39;t have my room ready. They invite me to have something to eat in the breakfast room. I finally get checked in and to my room. The room itself is fine, perfectly servicable and clean which is all I was expecting. I unpack the %26quot;necessities%26quot; then call home to let them know I%26#39;ve arrived and the new location. By now I%26#39;ve been traveling nearly 24 hours even subtracting the 8 hour time difference from home. I hate to do it but I lie down for a quick nap.
After getting up and a quick shower I%26#39;m determined not to waste any more of my first day. I find out where the metro stop is (about 5 blocks away) and head off deciding to find the Cluny so I won%26#39;t be lost in the morning. I buy a carnet, check the map and make my way to the Cluny station. I double check the hours for tomorrow and then wander down Bl. St Michel. I feel like a freaking zombie, my only emotion being disappointment. I decide cafe creme will help and go into Cafe Lutece. I sit and sip and watch the snow fall. SNOW! But fortified I go back out and wander past the St. Michael fountain and into the metro. A very nice girl sells me my carte orange, trims the photo and shows me where to write the number on the ticket. I go back out and it%26#39;s actually quite cold. Last time I visited in December it was nearly balmy and I suddenly realize I%26#39;ve forgotten my scarf from home. yeesh. I also forgot my Streetwise map so I buy a L%26#39;Indispensable from a news vendor. What a great little map! I recall an accessories store on Bl. St Germain that mom and I visited last year and decide to go there. This is the area we stayed in last year and I%26#39;m comforted by the familiar sights and the %26quot;parisianess%26quot; of the area. I treat myself to a gorgeous scarf at the Tie Rack and start wandering to the Odeon metro. As I approach the FNAC store I remember that I wanted to check on concerts, I go in and purchase a ticket to Les Archets playing at Eglise St. Germain des Pres sending a silent thank you to KDKSAIL for posting their website in the forum. This will be the first of many times I think of someone from the forum.
As I leave, I am ravenous. Recalling there was a restaurant across from the Danton that I never got around to trying I head that way. Imagine my surprise when I see it%26#39;s Les Editeurs of the September gathering fame. I%26#39;m tucked into a little corner that isn%26#39;t visible from anywhere else but I can hear a gathering at another table with people speaking English, French and some German. I can quite clearly see RandySilver and the other folks in my mind%26#39;s eye.My waiter was a bit snotty and unhelpful but the bus-girl (what are they called in France?) apologized on his behalf and that just tickled me pink. I had a wonderful meal of roasted chicken, gnocci with pesto, a green salad and a warm chocolate pudding cake with a scoop of almond ice cream. It%26#39;s my first night and my hotel s*cks due to location so I decide to spoil myself. Despite all that I%26#39;m feeling much better for my accomplishments of buying my C.O., my concert tickets, finding my way on the metro and getting some food in me. Tomorrow I have the Cluny and the Star Wars Expo at Cité %26amp; Sciences. I stop at my first ATM with a moment of hesitant dread. Will it work the way the bank clerk assured me it would? Voila, I get my cash, pop back on the metro and head home.
28 Dec - Waking at 6am all on my own I decide I%26#39;ve lost my mind. I don%26#39;t wake up that early at home on a work day! But I get up and get myself out the door. The continental breakfast is quite good and afterwards I%26#39;m feeling good. The weather is mild and the walk to the metro is fairly pleasant once I get past the off-ramp from the peripherique (!!!!) I%26#39;m about a half an hour early for the Cluny and there%26#39;s no line. I wonder if I%26#39;ve screwed up again and they%26#39;re closed today?? Checking my map-cards I see the only note I%26#39;ve made is that they%26#39;ll be closed on Tuesday and New Years Day. I decide to wander the area for just a bit to kill time. I%26#39;ve never been a morning person but I love the streets at this time of day. The sun isn%26#39;t quite up and the streets are quiet. I can linger and look at buildings and details without feeling like I%26#39;m in the way. Just around the corner is a cafe so I stop in for another cafe creme.
I still don%26#39;t know what combination of coffee brands, parisian water, espresso machines and voodoo makes Paris coffee so much better than anything I get at home but I savor every sip. I%26#39;m the only one there but for 3 regulars and I try to eavesdrop the conversations around me. I go back out and am relieved to see about 8 people lined up at the huge doors. We enter the charming little courtyard and then into the museum. I check my coat (LOVE coat checks at museums!) and then time for another accomplishment. I get my museum pass and head inside.
The Cluny was very interesting but I remind myself that I really need to learn more about the bible stories so know more about the subjects in the artwork. I%26#39;m amazed by the fine details on some of the metal work displayed on the pilgrims%26#39; badges. So tiny and yet such fine fine fine work. I only know what they are because of another forum recommendation, a book called The Road From the Past by Ina Caro. Heading upstairs to see the stars of the show, the tapestries. I walk into the room they have dedicated just to them with special lighting and it%26#39;s like a church but with tapestries instead of stained glass; it%26#39;s dark and quiet with people sitting in their own thoughts. I had also read The Lady %26amp; The Unicorn (yes, a forum suggestion) and it all came flooding back. Even though it was fiction it did have some interesting factual information. As someone who has done needlework for years I was just fascinated by the quality of the weaving and got my nose right up close trying to see the stitches. Absolutely stunning work. I also enjoyed the stained glass room where they had pieces of windows which (I *think*) the placards said were salvaged from St. Chappelle. I love St. Chappelle%26#39;s windows and to see some of them up close and backlit was lovely.
Leaving I stop in at St. Severin for a few moments. Gorgeous stained glass there as well, an interesting mix of traditional and modern. Also stopped at St. Julien le Pauvre, the oldest church in Paris. It was so cute and small I wanted to put it in my pocket. In my excitement to get out and moving this morning I forgot to check the camera batteries so I stop at a souvenir stand. Hearing my accent he asks where I%26#39;m from and then asks what I think of Bush. I chuckle to myself and we have a little conversation about politics then I head for the Conciergerie.
As I%26#39;m walking past Notre Dame the bells are going off at noon. I%26#39;ve never heard them before so I just stand and listen and then decide to go in even though I hadn%26#39;t planned on it. All the scaffolding of previous trips was gone and I could see the facade, the rose windows and the choir stand in all their glory. They also have a pretty little creche set up. I leave and go over to the former prison. Enjoyed it quite a bit but I wish I%26#39;d read more about the revolution before my trip (have you figured out by now that I%26#39;m a bit of a nerd?) though I did learn quite a bit from the displays. Checking the time, I have to zip to Cité %26amp; Sciences to make my ticket reservation.
The Place is a madhouse, I can%26#39;t help but compare it to a modern version of the prison I just left with people TEEMING everywhere and noise echoing. The Star Wars expo was quite interesting aside from being grossly overcrowded. As a movie nerd (though not a trekkie) it was cool to see all the props and miniatures and costumes. Everything at the expo had been used in one of the six films. Monnaie de Paris has issued special editions of the medallions you see at major sites so as a card carrying dork, I buy one with Darth Vader and one with Yoda. I%26#39;m starting to fade since I%26#39;d skipped lunch to get to the Conciergerie before the expo. Back on the metro and I stop at Chatelet where I%26#39;d seen Au Vieux Chatelet. Didn%26#39;t I just see that on TA as being %26quot;not too touristy%26quot;? I make a silent promise not to be touristy and go in. Had rabbit in a brown sauce with pasta %26amp; veggies, coffee and a sugar crepe for dessert.
Earlier I%26#39;d found Shakespeare %26amp; Co quite by accident. No wonder I%26#39;d never found it before, it was much smaller than I expected and tucked away in a little corner. I found a book for my mom and had a nice moment petting Ratzy, the scottie terrier in residence, while the clerk rings up my purchase. He didn%26#39;t seem to mind that the book was about cats in Paris and licked my hands. Maybe it was just leftover duck aroma rather than my charm. Heading back to the hotel on the metro I realize I forgot to call the ParisWalks folks for the Opera Garnier tour tomorrow and make it a priority to do so in the morning.
Sorry for how long this turned out, I%26#39;ll try to make the other posts shorter or break them up day by day.
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Your report is just delightful. Of course I%26#39;m prone to reporting experiences in great detail myself! It helps me to learn about visitors%26#39; experiences in various restaurants and museumes where I might go myself when I finally, finally get to Paris. Can%26#39;t wait to read your next report.
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Oops... Place d%26#39;Italie and Porte d%26#39;Italie are not the same thing at all.
And any address that does not have 75 in the zip code is not Paris.
We grow from our mistakes as they say...
Coffee... There is nothing like coffee in France. It is not the same as coffee in Belgium or Italy or... the US where it is often as transparent as tea.
Coffee is actually the only thing I bring back from France these days.
La_photographe (can%26#39;t connect with that name for some reason).
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JustGrace, don%26#39;t apologize, your report was fantastic. I enjoyed it very much. It seems that you had a great time and I think you are very daring to go by yourself.
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JustGrace, I enjoyed your report very much, and I too enjoyed the details.
Looking forward to hearing more!
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Enjoying your report very much. Can%26#39;t wait to read more!
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I really enjoyed your report. Please continue giving details!
How much did you pay for a day in the hotel out in Porte d%26quot;Italie? Sorry you did not notice how far out it was located.
I love staying in Place D%26#39;Italie. It is not so far and the price is good also I stay longer and do not mind the little extra time it takes.
I bought 4 needlepoints of the taspestries in Cluny. I have completed 3 of them.
Did you notice if they are still selling them in the gift shop? Thanks.
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JustGrace - What a delightful trip report! You have a wonderful descriptive way of writing! It is trip reports such as yours that bring Paris to life for those of us still waiting to visit. I for one look forward to your next installment. Thank you.
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Discover - my trip was a package deal, airfare and 6 nights hotel for $699 (plus all fees and taxes of course) so I can%26#39;t really say what the nightly rate was. Checking their website it looks like it%26#39;s in the 80-90€ range.
I didn%26#39;t notice any tapestry needlework kits at the Cluny gift shop. Just books, CD%26#39;s and jewelry. They did have a very charming collection of children%26#39;s books about knights, the middle ages and such. Even if they had the stitching kits I%26#39;m not sure I%26#39;d have the confidence to try them. Would love to see pictures of your completed works. :)
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